Notes from Mariehamn / Björkö / Nötö / Själö (Seili)
July 31 – August 9
During our stay in Mariehamn we went to explore the Bomarsund castle ruins with Godzilla’s artists Siún Carden, Minna Henriksson, and Ragnar Elnyg. The whole place was built with such uniquely shaped hexagonal (very honeycomb-like!) stones. Majority of the original (apparently massive) structures had been destroyed — there were only wall parts left here and there.
Minna Henriksson’s and Ragnar Elnyg’s performances took place on August 2 at the Sjökvarteret Museum. Minna Henriksson’s performative lecture ’Zeitenwende’ referred to a famous speech by the German Chancellor Olaf Scholz just a few days after Russia’s full scale invasion of Ukraine. Literal translation of the term is ‘times-turn’, and it marked a new era of increased militarisation of Germany, and with that of Europe. The performance introduced some aspects of the Zeitenwende with a focus on the Baltic Sea and Åland. It also included a workshop with the audience about future scenarios.
Ragnar Elnyg performed his piece “Hardstyle Fish”. The performance included dancing, singing, playing violin and swimming with a fishtail.
From Mariehamn we sailed (in a beautiful weather!) to a small island Björkö, where artistic duo Simon Häggblom and Karin Lind (SIMKA) hosted us in their beautiful home. Onboard on this trip: me, Iida-Liina Linnea, Merja Puustinen, Andy Best, Sari Torvinen, Ragnar Elnyg and Siún Carden.
They showed us the sweet small island with only 9 permanent inhabitants (but during summertime around 100 people!). We had a magnificent walk through the forests and the rocky beaches, and a refreshing swim in the Baltic Sea. Some bones (probably seal’s) were found on the shore. Simon Häggblom showed us their chicken and vegetable garden. SIMKA also talked us about their artworks. They had recently started to reconnect with their past project “Floating Trunks” that they had 10 years ago. One of the nights we had the cutest get together and a dance party with the locals. Ragnar Elnyg performed his piece “Ulkomaalainen vedenväki” at the Björkö event stage.
After spending couple of days in Björkö, we headed to Vitören — a small island with only a sauna in it. The place was magical! The weather was beautiful, Simon was making pancakes, some went to sauna, some were reading books and laying on the rocks. Godzilla stayed the night on anchor in Vitören. Iida and me slept in the sauna!
We left Vitören early next morning and sailed to Nötö. Back in Finland after a while! In Nötö we had a little hike to see Soiva kivi (A stone that rings). Iida picked up berries and also some chantarelles were found! Some of us slept in a yurt.
After enjoying a sunny day and peaceful night in Nötö (even though the island was full of ticks), we finally started heading towards Seili (Själö) and the Herring Day event on August 8, co-organised by Archipelago Research Institute (Turku University) and CAA Contemporary Art Archipelago in collaboration with Imagining Godzilla and John Nurminen Foundation. The event was part of a long-term collaboration between art and science in Seili.
The programme of the day was full of interesting things: First we had a guided tour about Archipelago Research Institute “60 Years of Research on the Changing Sea” by professor Ilppo Vuorinen. Then we heard about the state of the herring with super fascinating What’s up Herring? – how to read the otoliths (hearing bones) of herring and the food web of the sea – lecture guided by researchers / marine biologists Katja Mäkinen and Marjut Rajasilta. Then we had a viewing of the seashore through water binoculars, guided by marine biologist Katja Mäkinen. Then curator Taru Elfvig from CAA Contemporary Art Archipelago guided us through At the Edges of Knowledge: exhibition. Finally we enjoyed Sergio Castrillón cello performance Global Soundscapes, and Ragnar Elnyg‘s performance “Save a fish, eat a sailor.”
We left Seili a few days earlier than planned – we wanted to avoid the storm that was reaching the archipelago area. After packing our things, saying bye to Ragnar, Sari and Siún, and welcoming artists Rachael Allain and Santtu Laine onboard, we started to head towards Godzilla’s this summer’s last harbors Hangö and Tvärminne.
🦭: Saara