Author: Iida-Liina Linnea

  • Santtu Laine 8.-13.8.2024

    My trip started in Turku, where I took a two-hour ferry to Seili Island. This provided a smooth start to the upcoming Godzilla trip and the adventures ahead. On the ferry, I also met Rachael Allain, a co-artist from the UK who was also taking part in the Godzilla project.

    At Seili, we participated in Herring Day, co-organized by the Archipelago Research Institute and CAA Contemporary Art Archipelago. During the event, we learned about the extensive research on herrings that dates back to the early 1980s. We learned that herring and the entire ecosystem of the Baltic Sea are highly dependent on the salinity of the seawater. In short, when there is less salt, herrings grow smaller, which affects the entire ecosystem—from birds to sea mammals, and ultimately to us humans. It is predicted that, due to climate change, the Baltic Sea will gradually become warmer and less saline than before.

    We also met with other Godzilla artists: Sergio Castrillón, Siún Carden, Minna Henriksson, and Ragnar Elnyg. We had the pleasure of enjoying the magnificent performances of Sergio Castrillón and Ragnar Elnyg. The evening at Seili concluded with a magical touch when CAA curator Taru Elfving took us to visit the old 17th-century church of Seili and to watch the beautiful sunset from the highest point of the island.

    After Seili, we headed straight to Hanko Harbour to seek shelter from the approaching storm and heavy winds. While Godzilla was tightly moored in the harbour, we spent three days at the nearby Tvärminne Research Station. Tvärminne is a zoological research station maintained and operated by the University of Helsinki. In the research station it was time to roll our sleeves and get to work. At Tvärminne and in the close by island I managed to film and record underwater videos and sounds. I was specifically interested in underwater noise pollution originating from boats and ships. The close proximity of Syndalen military base and passing patrol boats provided more than I had expected.

    My own research is divided into two areas. The first focuses on material studies, where I explore seaweed-based bioplastics with the intention of using them as building materials for my work. This approach is rooted in a “leave-no-trace” mentality, aiming to create art with minimal ecological impact. I am also committed to the idea that the materials I use are “edible”, meaning that everything is both non-toxic and compostable. The second part of my research centers on creating art, involving a conceptual approach to listening and interpreting the memory embedded in the material. 

    I learned that the wellbeing of herrings is closely tied to the health of seaweeds. As the Baltic Sea gets warmer and its salinity decreases, the growth of seaweeds is also affected. Another crucial element in this puzzle is the sustainable harvesting of seaweeds. The seaweed I’m currently focusing on in my research is a red seaweed (Furcellaria lumbricalis), which is also found in Finnish waters. In Danish waters, commercial overuse and extensive harvesting in the mid-20th century almost wiped out the entire species. In recent years, more sustainable harvesting methods and regulations have been implemented to prevent further overexploitation. This serves as a reminder that we shouldn’t repeat the same mistakes with underwater forests that we’ve made with our terrestrial forests.

    Countless discussions with Tvärminne researchers, often while sitting in the sauna (of course), sparked many new ideas and provided valuable information about the various organisms and the current state of the Baltic Sea. I feel that by exchanging ideas and discussing them, we reached a mutual understanding that we are all working towards the same goal: to better understand the sea and make the Baltic Sea livable for future generations.

  • Aga Pokrywka 24.-30.7.2024

    The first scientific illustration of prehistoric times was painted 2 centuries ago. This watercolor represents an aquarium-like view of an epic battle between different dinosaur-like marine species living 200 millions years ago. Looking at it gives you an impression that competition and Jurassic Park aesthetics are inherent features of planet Earth.

    But dinosaurs were not the first creatures inhabiting our planet. Much earlier, there were cyanobacteria, the inventors of photosynthesis. They kick-started life on Earth and filled the atmosphere with oxygen, which led to the mass extinction of early life forms and paved the way to the evolution of future ones. What would a painting depicting life on Earth 3 billion years ago would look like?

    The answer is quite straight forward. It would actually represent a large body of water covered with cyanobacterial blooms of blue green algae. It is a familiar view to those who have seen the ocean, sea or lake polluted with fertilizers during warm days. I saw that image this summer sailing with Godzilla through the Baltic Sea, from Visby to Stockholm. 

    Hugged by the ring of an undisturbed horizon, it felt that our boat was stuck in one place and that only water with its rhythmic waves moved underneath. Stripes of tiny particles of blue green algae of various intensities resembled light green-yellowish glitter. Like tiny stars hanging throughout the volume of entire dark waters, at least as deep and far as I could see. I was staring at them and passing through their hypnotic patterns. They had a surprisingly strong and vivid presence: microscopic organisms counted in nautical miles.

    It made me think of Solaris and the ocean depicted in this scifi book by Stanislaw Lem: a vast, sentient entity, covering most of that distant planet. It was confusing for result-driven astronauts and scientists: it was silent but active; it didn’t want to build cities or flying machines; it didn’t try to reduce distances, nor was it concerned with interplanetary conquest. It was only busy with being and transforming itself on and on. Humans tried desperately to communicate with it, without much success. The more they tried the more it revealed their own limitations, fears, regrets, and desires. It was a mirror, reflecting the internal landscapes of the humans who encountered it. The scientists were asking one another helplessly: “How do you expect to communicate with the ocean, when you can’t even understand one another?”

    Maybe being a sailor doesn’t differ that much from being an astronaut. What do you see when you look in your own reflection in the fertilized-polluted waters covered with cyanobacteria? What if the overgrowth of these bacteria in the oceans, including Baltic Sea, is not a curse but a message?

    I will delve deeper into that reflection in my upcoming work “Invisible Colonies”, a speculative documentary film that tells a new history of humanity from an astronomic and microscopic perspective. The premier is planned in late 2025 and it will include footage shot during my time aboard Godzilla.

  • Notes from Gdansk and Sopot

    July 9 – July 12

    From Hel we (me, Merja, Andy, Gary and Pekka) head to Gdansk. The weather is perfect for sailing, and Godzilla’s artist Pekka Niskanen films the sea during our journey.

    We arrive in Gdansk through the canal with a massive shipyard. The sight with enormous robot-like structures is ominous and it smells terrible – definitely not clean air to breathe. I keep thinking about the state of the soil and especially the state of the water. Can’t even imagine how polluted this area is – it’s definitely the biggest and most shocking dock I’ve seen so far. As we get closer to the city, our other engine stops working. What a timing! We manage to get to the harbour with one motor and there we find out that a piece of rope (most likely from the nasty waters of the shipyard area) has gotten stuck in the propellers. After removing the rope the motor works well again. The Pirates of the Caribbean seems to be a big thing here, we see masses of tourists sailing with a plastic-looking Black Pearls boat.

    We walk around the city for a while and find a place to get us some dinner. We talk about our sail from Klaipeda to Hel –  there was something exceptional happening during the last few hours of the trip. Because of the Kaliningrad sea borders, we had to sail a triangular apex-shaped route. 1-2 hours before arriving in Hel, Godzilla’s chartplotter and autopilot got jammed / disturbed so that the navigating had to be done in the old school way with a map and compass. The directions and the distances of other boats and ships could only be estimated by their lights (we were sailing at night!). Also the distance and the way to the harbour was only possible to estimate with the lights from the mainland.
We could see from https://gpsjam.org that we went exactly through this distraction zone.

    We visit the LAZNIA Centre for Contemporary Art in Gdansk. The Exhibitions Department Manager Agnieszka Kulazińska-Grobis and the Assistant Curator Katarzyna Serkowska are super kind to tell us about the inspiring exhibitions and the interesting projects of Laznia CCA. We take a look at the interesting “Made in Hansa – HANSEartWORKS” group exhibition.


    We make a day trip to Sopot to visit the Institute of Oceanology of the Polish Academy of Sciences (IO PAN). We meet the wonderful Prof. Jan Marcin Węsławski, the head of the institute, who is specialised in marine coastal ecology and has done multiple polar and sea expeditions. He has been observing the state of the Baltic Sea for decades and witnessed its changes. IOPAN used to have a sea temperature measuring device, but Prof. Węsławski tells us about the problem they ran into; 2 years ago near Gotland the water temperature was shockingly 29 C, so the scale of the machine was not sufficient anymore. We also talk about topics such as mustard gas, the effects of the warming sea water, overfishing, disappearing cod, and the various fascinating (and also art related!) projects of the institute. The institute also has their own gorgeous research vessel s/y Oceania!

    I find a 5 złoty coin on the floor and hope to get a warm shower with it. I try my luck – and it works! I get 5 mins of shower with it and it feels heavenly. We get prepared for the sea crossing to Sweden. Our next port is about 32h sail away, in Karlskrona, a small town south of Sweden. Iida joins us in the boat! Just before leaving, we see that there’s something weird floating on the water next to our boat. Maybe some trash? Dead fish? No, it’s a baby deer’s head (!) and some people come and pick it up. Time to leave Poland behind and start the journey to the north.

    All photos: Saara Kolehmainen

    🦭: Saara

  • Sea voyage from Klaipeida to Hel

    Klaipeda (LTU) Sunday July 7 4PM, – Hel (POL) Tuesday July 9 4AM

    Godzilla crew onboard: Merja, Andy, Saara and Gary. We leave from Klaipeda around 4PM. As the crow flies, the way to Hel would not be that long, but because of Kaliningrad and the Russian sea borders, we have to sail a route shaped like a triangle. On the Klaipeda harbour there’s a massive (literally the size of a multi-storey building) cruise ship from Velletta, Malta. 

    Photos: Saara Kolehmainen

    As soon as we leave the port, the waves turn big. The wind is weak but the size and the rhythm of the waves make the whole crew nauseous. It’s confusing to experience rough waves with hardly any wind. Merja and Andy explain the phenomenon; this thing happens when the waves continue their way even though the wind has died down elsewhere. Seasickness takes over. Andy and Merja steer the boat and sleep in 2 hour turns. Me ja Gary sleep in the pod (on top of the hulls). It’s the best place to be in this situation, because near mast the movements of the boat and the water don’t feel so much. I can only focus on the basic things: eating, drinking water, peeing, sleeping. I’m keeping my eyes on the horizon — it’s the only thing that doesn’t move.

    In the evening we see a magical (almost trippy) sunset. Horizontal stripes of blue, purple, red orange and bright yellow — looks like a painting! It’s impossible to take a picture of it because I feel too weak, I can only keep my eyes on the horizon or just keep my eyes closed. Merja shows that on the captain’s chair the world doesn’t spin so much, it’s actually a good spot to just sit and breathe for a moment. I take a look at the sunset for a while before going to bed. It’s dark for a few hours at night and we can see the stars.

    11AM the next day. I wake up and it’s a warm, sunny, beautiful summer day. Life wins! The big waves are gone and we’re moving slowly because of the lack of wind. Lesson learned: It’s better to prevent sea sickness than to go through it. Next time I try to take the seasickness pill on time before I feel bad. Some parts of the journey we travel with motors instead of sails because there’s still so little wind. As we reach the apex of the triangle shaped sea borders of Kaliningrad, there’s a Russian border boat guarding and a plane flying around, directly above the borders.

    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen

    4PM. First 24 hours on the boat! We have approx. 50 nautical miles (about 100 km) to Poland. There’s loads of blue algae around us and an ominous, massive oil pumping station (Lotos Petrobaltic) on the horizon. It’s super contradictory; It’s unbelievably beautiful – almost cloudless blue sky with sunshine. Soft, tender breeze of wind. No hurry. Time to draw sketches. Beautiful boredom. Gorgeous (yet polluted) sea. But then there’s this enormous oil pumping station that looks like an evil town and next to it there’s a ship from which a huge black cloud of exhaust gas is emitted. We can get the internet data for a little moment as we sail past the station. We have only seen cargo ships but not other sail boats on this trip.

    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen

    During the last few hours of our sail, Godzilla’s chartplotter and autopilot gets jammed/disturbed so that the navigating has to be done in the old school way with a map and compass. The directions and the distances of other boats and ships can only be estimated by their lights. Also the distance and the way to the harbour is only possible to estimate with the lights from the mainland. 

    After 36 hours of sailing we dock to Hel port in Poland around 4AM. The marina building looks like a tulip and it’s already getting bright outside.

    🦭: Saara

  • Notes from Nida/Preila/Klaipeida

    July 2 – July 6

    Helsinki-Tallinn by ferry, Tallinn-Riga by bus, one night in a hostel, Riga-Klaipeda by bus and Klaipeda-Nida by bus. I finally arrive in Nida and step into Godzilla, my home for the next 6 weeks. Andy and Merja had already arrived here a few days before, they had had a 60-hour open water sailing (also through a rough storm!) from Örö to Klaipeda, and then from Klaipeda to Nida.

    Nida is a Lithuanian small town uniquely located on the Curonian Spit between the Curonian Lagoon and the Baltic Sea. Its characteristic sand dunes and pine trees bent by the wind create a picturesque view. The border of Kaliningrad is 5km away, and from top of the dunes it’s possible to see the border fences going over the hills, border buoys on the water and a border guard boat on its spot on the Kaliningrad side. The Curonian Spit has the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I don’t know what that means in practice. There is plenty of tourism, and it’s interesting to see how popular this place is even if it’s so far from everything and definitely not convenient or easy to reach.

    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen

    Me, Andy and Merja jump into the van of Anton Shramkov. He drives us to the nearby village Preila, where his beautiful, unique upcycled home is located, and he tells us about the building process. He is an architect and an educator, who bought the house when it was just a skeleton-like structure. With the planning of this house he gave up using 3D programs and planned everything on top of photos instead. This cosy home was created with almost completely reusable materials (some parts are found from the sea, some are from upcycling centres, some are gifted by neighbours, some parts are bought as new). Their sweetheart, Umka the dog, melts everyone’s hearts and Anton kindly gifts an old life buoy for Godzilla. After the house tour we all go for lunch together and walk on the beautiful beach.

    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen

    On the beach in Preila, Godzilla’s artist duo Kati Rapia and Ilona Valkonen organise their ecological and community (re)searching photographic art piece and a workshop performance ”State of the World” with the local kids. The materials for the workshop are treasures and trash found from the sea.

    Photo: Gary Markle
    Photo: Gary Markle
    Photo: Gary Markle

    Godzilla’s artist Gary Markle joins us on the boat. Gary is a Canadian artist, educator, and doctoral researcher at Aalto University. He has been investigating the surroundings by foot – his expeditions have taken him to the beaches and forests of Nida and Preila, through various weather conditions. 

    Photo: Gary Markle
    Photo: Gary Markle

    We visit Nida Art Colony. NAC is a subdivision of Vilnius Academy of Arts and it runs an international artist residency programme and curates and commissions art and research projects, events, exhibitions, and study courses. Super interesting, inspiring and aesthetically pleasing place! We also visit architect Mantas Peteraitis’s & artist Lina Lapalyte’s beautiful house in the nearby village.

    Photo: Merja Puustinen
    Photo: Merja Puustinen

    We leave Nida and Preila behind and head to Klaipeda. On our way the beautiful sand dunes continue for miles. It’s a perfect day to sail with the soft winds. Sad to leave the nice people in Nida behind. The shipyard of Klaipeda is huge – it takes forever to go through it to the city harbour. As we get closer to the city we hear music and noises of festivities. It’s the Statehood day in Lithuania. The city is full of people and everybody is celebrating with Lithuanian flags.

    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen
    Photo: Saara Kolehmainen

    🦭: Saara

  • Gary Markle 10.7.2024

    Random thoughts from the journey so far

    “This too will pass”

    An ancient saying that helps with seasickness and hours of sailing as a passenger in the dark and rolling Baltic Sea.

    After this journey lasting over a few days and nights I’m thinking about things with a different focus, things like peeing, pooing and vomiting. But also more abstract things like space to move about, to sleep to make food…

    We (humans) don’t own things anymore than they own us. This goes for ideas and concepts as well as objects. This level of thing-ness is appealing to my current mindset.

    We borrow from the planet and owe a debt for this loan. Life is in this sense a transaction. A continuous flow of materials and energies across space and time. Of course the planet also must benefit from our existence too. Are humans perhaps permitted some interest on their investment? 

    I wonder what the balance in my account?

  • Notes from Örö

    All through our stay in Örö the weather was lovely and the water was quite clear still, there was not yet any blue-green algea vegetation taking over. Bladder wrack was thriving.

    We went treasure hunting with artist Anna Pekkala around the beaches of Örö. We picked up a lot of trash and while searching for seal bones, Anna shared with me interesting thoughts about how us humans are the worst predators of all and the rest of them are just misunderstood in their attempts to survive. Her artworks often portray the predators of the seas. We saw a seagull eat a baby bird. This makes me think of how nature often seems to find an equilibrium between the different surviving methods of species, yet humans somehow can’t find that balance and end up endangering species after species. Like the critically endangered eider population of the Archipelago Sea. We visited the lighthouse island Bengtskär in the Outer Archipelago, where the eiders are still nesting and numerous, and even saw some of their nests made out of the plumes the birds pluck out of themselves.

    During the week we noticed that swans seemed to have a bad year of nesting, as most of the pairs around the area didn’t have any babies with them.

    We went sailing around the islets Digskär and Dansangrundet with the Institute for Coping with Destruction, birdwatching and following the public discussion about their art piece on Dansangrundet. The collective had had this intriguing idea that by hopping from islet to islet they would get ever closer to the dead areas of the Baltic Sea, to finally get to the middle of the actual destruction and possibly gather some of the dead sea bed. Last year during the journey they made the installation art piece that is a working borehole spring on Dansangrundet, where anyone can stop and have a drink of fresh water on their way to the dead sea areas, or somewhere else. 

    While the final journey to the dead sea areas is still in the future, the Institute had a soft and curious way of investigating the surrounding nature from aboard the Godzilla. It’s not all about facts and what we see, but also just taking in the surroundings and letting it be. They went round and round Dansangrundet with the intention of going ashore, but realized that there’s no point in setting foot on the islet inhabited by so many birds and their nests. The borehole spring -artwork has become part of the birds’ territory.

    The public discussion around the borehole spring got intense during our week in Örö. To me the disapproval the art piece has created seems like a cry for help, but aimed at the wrong thing. Shouldn’t the feelings this tiny pump on the barren island is causing, be caused by the actual, huge, life-threatening environmental problems and crimes happening all the time around us? New mines are being built spoiling the waters and the city of Helsinki keeps building new ground straight into the sea to build more apartments with a sea view. And these are just a tiny drop of examples in the sea on crisis. But these constructions (as well as building new cottages in the islands around Dansangrundet) can be justified by the capitalist agenda of growing the economy and bettering the lives of humans, so people don’t get so offended that a resistance would rise. The conversation around the borehole spring brings to light this twisted relationship us humans have with the rest of nature, and it’s a good opportunity to investigate that relationship.

    Iida-Liina Linnea, 6.7.2024

  • Anna Pekkala 27.6.2024

    I lie on a rock and gradually realize I am on the ants’ path. Three different spiders visit my towel. They climb over me, tickle, and bother me. A green shiny beetle is perched in the middle of the towel when I return from a bush pee. I am in their way.

    The sun is burning hot. Blue-green algae have already been detected in the capital region, the warm early summer hastened its development. Thanks to Godzilla, I have spent more hours at sea in a few days than in years. The highlights of childhood summers were a couple of weeks of sea trips to the archipelago, especially to islands that were uninhabited by human. It was there that my collecting began, and continues to this day. The most important treasures are algae, bones, and other parts of dead creatures, such as dragonfly wings, etc. Various kinds of trash have also joined the collection.

    I have been trying to find a seal skull for my collection. At the same time, I started picking up trash. I didn’t find the skull, and at some point, I forgot about it entirely. I moved from trash to trash. Eventually, I had a bag full of plastic collected from one shore of Örö. The collector in me was thrilled. I found.

    I move the trash from place A to place B and hope it has some meaning. I am tempted to go collect more trash. An oystercatcher yelled at me and clearly circled its nest as I waddled on the shore rocks. Maybe my collecting will ultimately have a positive impact on the oystercatcher pair and their potential chicks. 

    The sea continues to swell as I head back to the city.

    I must go collect more trash.

    Anna Pekkala in the bushes of Örö, June 27th 2024

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    Photo Iida-Liina Linnea